Curry Noodles in Coconut Broth (laksa lemak)

by Chef Robert Danhi, Southeast Asian Flavors

Makes 4 to 6 bowls as a one-dish meal

1/2 cup dried red chilies, stems and seeds removed
2 teaspoons dried shrimp
1/2 cup vegetable oil
6 small shallots, roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
3 stalks lemongrass, trimmed and sliced thinly, about 1/8-inch thick
1 tablespoon finely grated galangal
4 candlenuts or macadamia nuts or blanched almonds
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 quart light seafood or chicken broth
2 cans (14 oz each) coconut milk
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 lb. cooked egg noodles, 1/8-inch thick
3/4 lb small shrimp, peeled and deveined
3/4 lb cooked fish balls or sliced fish cake
1 package (4 ounces) deep fried bean curd puffs, halved
2 cups bean sprouts, trimmed and blanched
1 cup cucumber, kirby variety preferred, bite size julienne strips, about 1/8-inch thick
1/4 cup laksa leaves or mint leaves, thinly sliced, about 1/8-inch wide
2 to 3 medium limes, cut into wedges
1/4 cup malaysian chili sauce (sambal belacan) or store bought chili paste

1. Make the spice paste (rempah): Soak chilies and dried shrimp in 1/2 cup room temperature water for 30 minutes; drain, and squeeze out excess moisture. In blender, combine oil, shallots, and garlic; puree on lowest speed until semi-smooth. Add lemongrass, galangal, candlenuts, turmeric, coriander, white pepper, drained chilies, and shrimp. Puree again until the rempah is semi-smooth.

2. Make the broth: Heat a 4 quart saucepan over medium-low heat. Add pureed chili paste, and fry over low heat until it is fragrant, and oil begins to separate from puree, 10 to 15 minutes. It should lose any raw aroma, and the raw flavor of the shallots also softens. Add stock; simmer 30 minutes. Add coconut milk and sugar; taste and season with salt as necessary. Bring back to a simmer.

3. Assemble the soup: Add fish balls and fried bean curd to broth; heat through. Add the par-cooked noodles, and simmer until they are soft and heated through. Divide noodle evenly among 4 to 6 serving bowls. Pour in the broth, and arrange the hot solid ingredients atop the noodles, topping each bowl with bean sprouts, cucumber and laksa leaves or mint. Serve with lime wedges and chili sambal.

How and Why

1. If using a blender instead of mortar and pestle, add ingredients to the blender vase from wettest to driest, avoiding unnecessary added water. Starting the blender with the wet ingredients at bottom creates liquid base into which the drier ingredients can meld. This keeps the paste from becoming watery.

2. Fry the rempah (wet spice paste) enough to banish any raw flavor. Since this broth does not simmer long, it’s necessary to fry the rempah long enough to soften the raw flavor notes first.