Achara (Pickled Green Papaya)

by Ivory Hut

Filipino cuisine is a colorful blend of Malay, Chinese, Spanish, and even Indian influences. Most meals are served with a wide selection of condiments and dipping sauces, often laid out in little bowls or dishes, so each person can fully customize the meal to his or her heart’s content. One of my favorite condiments is achara, or Philippine-style pickles. Different regions of the country have their own versions of achara, using different vegetables and slightly different pickling liquids. I prefer this kind of achara—a crunchy, sweet and tangy version using green papaya. It’s the perfect condiment for grilled meat, especially Filipino barbecue.

The recipe is straightforward and simple. The most labor-intensive part of the recipe involves preparing and drying the green papaya. The flesh is usually scraped or shred into long strands, almost like spaghetti noodles. In the Philippines, we use a hand held tool that looks like a larger version of a citrus zester. I imagine a mandoline would also make quick work of it, but you can also use the shredder attachment of your food processor. Just be sure not to shred it into small pieces like slaw; you want strands or strings of vegetables.

Serves 12

1 medium green papaya, about 3 pounds, peeled, seeds removed, and julienned, sliced, or shredded into thin long strands
1 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup sugar, or more (up to 1/4 cup more) to taste if you want a sweeter achara
2 heaping tablespoons kosher salt
1/2 cup pineapple juice
1 medium carrot, peeled and julienned, sliced, or shredded into thin long strands
1/2 small red bell pepper, julienned
1/4 cup pineapple chunks, halved
1 piece ginger, about 1/2″ long, julienned (optional)
1 to 2 cloves garlic, sliced thinly (optional)
1 tablespoon raisins (optional)

Put the green papaya in a colander and squeeze until the papaya releases its juices. Spread the papaya on a baking sheet and let dry in the sun, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, combine vinegar, sugar, and salt in a small sauce pan and simmer until sugar is completely dissolved. Add pineapple juice and mix.

In a large bowl, combine dry papaya shreds, vinegar mixture, and the remaining ingredients. Mix well. Transfer to clean jars and store in the refrigerator. Let sit at least one day before using.