NAC: Your book tells vivid stories of your childhood, sharing memories of food in both Korea and New Orleans. Were there any nostalgic foods or dishes that didn't make it into the book?

SUNEE: There were many, many recipes we didn't include, but with the help of my genius editor, Amy Einhorn, we tried to include those that were important to the narrative. It was also about time - there never seems to be enough when it comes to testing and retesting recipes. Had I had more time, I would have added my grandfather's Oyster Dressing that's so delicious stuffed into turkey, pork chops, and artichokes. I would have also explored Korean cuisine more and practiced bibimbap and other classic dishes. I have a bibimbap recipe on my website now.

NAC: When you were compiling recipes for your book, how much was done from memory? How did your family feel about you publishing family recipes?

SUNEE: My aunt and uncle actually sent me the copy of my grandfather's crawfish bisque recipe. It's a bit tattered and worn, which is always a good sign. Before my grandfather died, my uncle videotaped Poppy making the bisque. Poppy was a pinch-of-this-a-pinch-of-that kind of cook, so it's nice to have the video. And my other uncle, Kerry, gave me his recipe for Monday red beans and rice. He's a wonderful cook, and if I had had the space, I would have included many more of his recipes. He makes wonderful uses of andouille sausage and mirliton, a spicy soup in particular, with cayenne and Tabasco.

NAC: When you cook now, how much do you draw on these recipes from your past?

SUNEE: I rarely follow a recipe; that's probably why I'm not a good baker - I always want to try something new. As for the recipes in "Trail of Crumbs," I had to recreate many from memory and scribbled notes, and then test and have someone else test and then I retested. I'll never make a daube like I did in Provence, or fried rabbit and chips like I ate in Florence. So when I cook, I have flashes of flavor memory that I want to taste again and I go from there and do the best I can. You never make the same dish twice, ever.

NAC: In the book, you say that you now understand that oysters, in their purest form, are the perfect food. What are some other foods that, in your opinion, come close to perfection?

SUNEE: Eggs. Think of all the glorious things you can do with eggs. Crème fraiche. A chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano, Champagne - does that count as a food? But the oyster, slipped fresh from the shell, is perfection.

NAC: What kitchen advice would you give to home cooks who are interested in experimenting with French cuisine? Korean? Creole?

SUNEE: Read as much as possible (magazines, culinary histories, there are great video how-tos as well on the Internet) and then be fearless. Start with something simple and basic, like a roast chicken or even a gumbo, and venture out. Don't tackle the months-long buried kimchis to start. In the end, what matters is what you like and enjoy cooking. And remember, all good cooks need good eaters, so if you feel frustrated as a cook, just be a good eater. And, cooking takes practice, so if the dish doesn't come out the first time, try it again...and the next time, have a nice glass of wine no longer than a chef's knife's length away.

NAC: Finally, we always ask our interview subjects to recommend some Asian restaurants and grocery stores. What would your recommendations be?

SUNEE: I just got back from Chapel Hill, North Carolina, and I really love what Andrea Reusing is doing at her restaurant Lantern. She's using local ingredients and showcasing them in gorgeous, simple ways infused with Asian flavors. The day I was in, she happened to make kimchi and she also sent out a crispy pork belly with coconut milk. It was divine. I also love the Japanese market, Uwajimaya, in Seattle-speaking of Seattle, I like the Baguette Box for lunch. There's also Kalustyan's in Manhattan. I'm still searching for a great Thai restaurant here in the States. There's one in Queens I'm hoping to get to next time I'm in the area. I LOVE Uchi in Austin. Tyson Cole is a huge talent. There's also the Vietnamese market in Eastern New Orleans - a bustling, bumbling pre-dawn excursion. And across the river from New Orleans is a place called Tan Dinh that serves sweetened crispy rice cakes and fragrant pho.


Kim Sunee's Favorite Restaurants & Grocery Stores